There are 3 groups of patterns for this segment:

  1. A tracing of the jacket sloper with a lapel added and collar made to match it - please include ALL the original darts.
  2. A set of jacket linings, facings and interfacings for the basic jacket (with lapel and collar) - per instructions given in class
  3. A complete pattern set for a jacket of your own design
    • The DESIGN JACKET must include:
      • a "Notched" collar (not Shawl or mandarin)
      • a Lapel
      • Buttons/buttonholes OR zipper closure
      • Pocket (a least one)
      • Front facing (back optional according to pattern)
      • 2 or 3 piece sleeves with vent at cuff
      • Shoulder pads & sleeve heads (pattern just allows room for these)
      • Enclosed lining with back pleat
    • The pattern must include:
      • All the jacket parts
      • the lining
      • the facings
      • the interfacing
      • closure markings
      • all other necessary markings

    This may require finding other pattern books, especially when it comes to the pockets. Please plan accordingly.

    Also, do not design anything complicated. This is meant to be a leaning experience, both for patternmaking and for sewing. Survive THIS jacket, then you can go off and conquer the world.


  1. A complete paper pattern for both the basic and the basic and the design jacket using the pattern guidelines (neatness REALLY counts) (80%)
  2. A test muslin for both the basic and the design jacket using the muslin guidelines. Use similar weight fabric to intended fashion fabric for the design pattern (last pattern). (15%)
  3. A Direction Card for both the basic and the design jacket (5%)


Direction Card FILE Muslin gradesheet
Direction Card INSTRUCTIONS Pattern gradesheet
Direction Card EXAMPLE Basic sewing guidlines



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